Traditional Jewelleries of India & their Cultural Significance

There is something about Traditional Indian Jewellery that just hits different. It is not just about gold, gemstones or those intricate designs. It is about history, culture and about stories woven into every piece, passed down like treasured secrets from one generation to the next. The moment you wear a pair of jhumkas or fasten a heavy choker around your neck, it feels like stepping into another era - one where elegance was effortless and jewellery was more than just an accessory. Every region in India has its own signature style. Rajasthan gives us its regal Kundan sets, while the South blesses us with its divine Temple jewellery. Bengal's gold filigree work is delicate yet bold and Gujarat's silver jewellery screams boho-chic long before it was a trend. Traditional jewellery is not just something you wear. It is something you feel. It is nostalgia, pride and artistry, all wrapped up in a piece of metal and stone. It is a reminder of where we come from, of the craftsmanship that has stood the test of time. Once you start appreciating its beauty, there is no going back. So, let's take a deep dive into this dazzling world, one breathtaking piece at a time...

Chandrahar is a traditional Bengali necklace design that derives its name from the Hindi words Chandra, meaning Moon and Haar meaning Necklace. It is made with a layer of chains consisting of tiny gold balls. Bengal has always been famous for its unique and intricate jewellery designs. This ornament is also used in another form on the waist and consists of a series of tiny balls held together in a criss-cross shape with gold wire. It has a long pendant with a flower motif and small flowers on either side of the gold chain.

Chooda and Kalire are traditional bridal ornaments worn by Punjabi and North Indian brides. Chooda is a set of red and white bangles, originally made of ivory but now crafted from plastic or acrylic. It is gifted to the bride by her maternal uncle and symbolises prosperity and a new beginning in married life. Brides usually wear it for at least 40 days after the wedding, though some keep it on for up to a year, depending on family traditions. Kalire are golden, umbrella-shaped ornaments tied to the chooda by the bride's family and friends. They represent blessings, happiness and prosperity in the bride's new home. A common tradition involves the bride shaking her kalire over her unmarried friends. If a piece falls on someone, it is believed they might be the next to marry.

Guttapusalu is a traditional South Indian necklace known for its distinctive pearl-draped design. The name comes from Telugu, where Gutta means a bunch and Pusalu refers to pearls. This necklace features an elaborate gold framework adorned with clusters of tiny pearls, creating a cascading effect. Originally from Andhra Pradesh, Guttapusalu has been a significant part of South Indian Bridal Jewellery, especially in Tamil Nadu and Telangana. It is often crafted with gold and embedded with rubies, emeralds and uncut diamonds, enhancing its regal appeal.

Hath Phool, also referred to as hand flowers, is a popular traditional Indian jewellery among women across various regions. It is a bracelet and ring combination worn on the back of the hand, connected by delicate chains or strings. The Hath Phool is typically crafted with intricate designs using precious metals like gold, silver, and adorned with precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. It's design is often inspired by nature, with floral and leaf motifs, and may also feature traditional Indian symbols and patterns. This jewellery is often worn during special events such as weddings and festivals, adding elegance and grace to the outfit and representing traditional Indian beauty and culture. The skill and artistry of Indian artisans are showcased in the delicate craftsmanship of this jewellery. Originating from Rajasthan, the Hath Phool is a floral design ornament that connects to five different rings on each finger. The finger parts are adorned with stones, and the reverse side is intricately carved with enamel, with the setting known as Kunthan. Some people even decorate their hands with Henna beneath or under the Hath Phool.

It's origin is from South India which means Serpent (Tamilnadu). It is worn by brides to decorate hair and has two pieces. The centre piece consists of and moon and it is surrounded by several cobras head. Sun and Moon is the the symbol of glory and serpent is the symbol of power. The sun and moon was stuck with rubies and diamonds. Several supplimentary ornaments are used with this to enhance the beauty of this. It is also used by devadasi or temple dancers, who consider themselves as God's bride. This traditional ornament is continues even now in Bharathanayam costume where serpant head is substituted by flowers.

Jun Biri is a traditional Assamese jewellery piece, primarily worn by the Bodo community. It is crafted in silver and often coated with a thin layer of gold for a subtle shine. The design takes inspiration from nature, featuring motifs like the moon, sun, flowers and birds. This jewellery is commonly used in necklaces, earrings and hair accessories, perfectly complementing the traditional mekhela chador. Its patterns are intricate yet elegant, adding a distinct charm to Assamese attire. Jun Biri is handcrafted by skilled artisans using traditional techniques, ensuring authenticity in every piece. The craftsmanship and cultural significance make it a cherished ornament in Assam's jewellery heritage.

There can be two classifications of Kada, one which is a circular thick bangle made out of iron, meant for religious purpose, and the second is any thick bangle made of precious or semi-precious metals and decorated with adornments, meant for more celebratory occasions and events. The female wear this ornament and it is named Kangan. One style of this is made of a hollow piece each had two designs at the end either twin parrot elephant or peacock. Kada worn by men is carved but not engraved.

Karn Phool Jhumka Jewellery, originating from Rajasthan, is a popular traditional Indian accessory among women from various regions, including North India, Maharashtra and Gujarat. The Hindi translation of Karn Phool is flower of the ear, and the jewellery is designed to hang from the earlobes. Jhumkas are typically made of gold or silver and decorated with intricate designs, such as traditional Indian motifs like paisleys and florals, and small beads. They also commonly feature a tiny bell that creates a tinkling sound as the wearer moves. This jewellery represents feminine grace and elegance and pairs well with traditional Indian outfits like Sarees and Lehengas. The jhumka style of jewellery has been popular for centuries, dating back to the Mughal period. The jhumka features a chain and a large floral stud embellished with diamonds and rubies. It is supported by two strands of pearls and attached to the hair with a hook to reduce weight.

Kundan jewellery is one of India's oldest and most refined jewellery styles, known for its intricate craftsmanship and royal appeal. It is made by setting uncut gemstones into a base of highly refined gold, using a unique technique that does not require prongs or clasps. Originating from Rajasthan, Kundan work flourished under the Mughal era and remains a symbol of traditional luxury. Skilled artisans shape thin sheets of gold to create a framework, carefully embedding each stone to achieve a luminous effect. Many pieces also feature meenakari work on the reverse side, adding vibrant enamel detailing. This jewellery is popular for weddings and festive occasions, often seen in elaborate necklaces, chokers, earrings and bangles. Though heavily favoured by brides, lighter Kundan designs can also be worn with sarees and lehengas for an elegant look.

Linga Padakka Muthu Malai is a traditional South Indian temple jewellery necklace with deep cultural and spiritual significance. It is commonly seen in Tamil Nadu, especially among Bharatanatyam dancers, temple devotees, and brides. This necklace consists of a garland of pearls (muthu malai), leading to a pendant (padakkam) shaped like a Shiva Lingam. The pendant often features intricate gold carvings of deities, saints, or temple motifs and may be adorned with rubies, emeralds or uncut diamonds. The necklace symbolises devotion to Lord Shiva and is worn during religious rituals, dance performances, and traditional ceremonies. It is a neck ornament made of two strands of pearls joined together, with a pendant in the shape of a Sivalinga made of emerald and gold. The linga is joined on either side by a peacock, and there is a hanging lotus motif at the center. Brides wear it during their wedding, and it indicates the status of women. It was believed that pearls prevented misfortunes, and the pendant was often engraved with words. This ornament was originated in Tamilnadu.

Manga Malai, also known as Mango Mala, is a traditional South Indian necklace featuring mango-shaped motifs linked together in a gold chain. It is popular in Tamil Nadu and is often worn by brides and Bharatanatyam dancers. Crafted in pure gold, this necklace sometimes includes rubies, emeralds, or uncut diamonds for added elegance. The mango design is considered auspicious in Indian culture, symbolising prosperity and good fortune. Manga Malai comes in different styles, from simple, lightweight versions for everyday wear to heavily ornamented designs for weddings and special occasions. The necklace is often paired with other Traditional jewellery like Kasumala and Temple jewellery for a complete bridal look.

A Nath, also called Nathani, is a traditional Indian nose ring, deeply rooted in culture and heritage. It is commonly worn by brides and holds symbolic significance in many communities. The Nath is often associated with femininity, marital status and regional identity. Nath is a nose ornament which is engraved with clusters or single diamond, pearl with foundation gold or silver. In some parts it is a symbol of married women. Another form of Nathini is a larger size ring which is exposed outside and it is held with the help of chain which is attracted to the hair with the help of a hook. This is known to be one of the best art of Maharasthra and is rarely used.

Oddiyanam, also known as Waist Belt or Kamarband in Hindi, is a type of traditional Indian jewellery worn by women in the southern states of India, particularly in Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It is a waist ornament that is typically made of gold, silver and embellished with intricate designs and precious stones such as diamonds, emeralds, and rubies. The Oddiyanam is usually worn with traditional silk sarees and is considered an essential part of a South Indian bride's wedding trousseau. It not only adds to the beauty of the saree but also serves as a symbol of status and wealth. The design of the Oddiyanam is usually inspired by nature, with intricate patterns and motifs depicting flowers, leaves, and vines. It is a testament to the exquisite craftsmanship of Indian jewellery makers and represents India's rich cultural heritage. It is said that using this ornament regularly, the women maintain the waist even after several deliveries.

Paizab is a leg ornament that originated from Hyderabad. It is a thin base chain with several connecting chains, which creates a board effect. This jewellery is typically made of gold or silver and is adorned with precious stones or engravings, known as Kunthan settings. Paizab is a type of traditional Indian jewellery that is popular among women in various regions of India and is often an essential part of Indian Bridal Jewellery. This jewellery is commonly worn with traditional Indian outfits such as sarees, lehengas and salwar kameez, and it adds an element of elegance and charm to any outfit.

Sarpech is a type of traditional Indian jewellery that originated in the northern regions of the country, particularly in the state of Rajasthan. It is typically worn by men on special occasions such as weddings and other formal events. Sarpech is a type of headgear that is adorned with intricate designs made of gold, gems and precious stones. The design of a Sarpech typically incorporates elements of nature, such as flowers, leaves, and birds, as well as cultural motifs and symbols. Sarpech jewellery is a symbol of status and prestige, and is often passed down as a family heirloom from one generation to the next. It is a testament to India's rich cultural heritage and the craftsmanship of its artisans. Sarpech is typically made of diamonds and emarald and it is worn by men on their turban. Elaborate Jaipur enamel work is done on it. Even the queens of Mugal used a similar type of head ornament.

Shakha and Pola are traditional bangles worn by married Bengali women. Shakha refers to white bangles made from conch shells, while Pola refers to red bangles made from coral. These bangles symbolise marital status, with Shakha representing purity and Pola signifying strength and prosperity. A bride receives these bangles during a pre-wedding ritual where her maternal uncle gifts them as a blessing for a happy married life. Before wearing them, they are dipped in turmeric water, a practice believed to bring positivity and good fortune.

This is a head ornament that originated in Gujarat and is made of gold. It is an exquisite piece held in place by the unusual method of gold hooks attached to the hair. The ornament consists of a series of heavy gold chains held by flat metal strips with carved traditional motifs of peacocks. The peacock symbolizes beauty and grace and is studded with sapphires and emeralds, and sometimes rubies are used. Little golden belts with clusters of pearls hang from the center, enhancing the beauty of the ornament. It is typically used during festivals and wedding occasions.

Tarakasi is a centuries-old silver filigree craft from Odisha, known for its intricate and delicate designs. Made using fine silver wires that are twisted, curled and soldered together, this jewellery features detailed motifs like flowers, peacocks and temple-inspired patterns. The process begins with pure silver, which is stretched into thin wires and shaped into elaborate designs. Skilled artisans spend days, sometimes weeks, crafting each piece with precision. Traditionally, Tarakasi was used in temple decorations and royal jewellery, but today, it is popular in modern accessories like rings, earrings and pendants.

Thewa jewellery is a traditional Rajasthani art that combines 23K gold with coloured glass. Originating in the 17^th century, this unique craft involves fusing intricately carved gold sheets onto a glass base, creating detailed patterns inspired by nature, mythology and Mughal motifs. The process is entirely handcrafted, requiring precision and skill. Artisans use special engraving techniques to etch fine designs onto thin gold sheets, which are then delicately fused onto treated glass. This glass, available in shades like red, green and blue, enhances the beauty of the gold detailing. Thewa jewellery is commonly seen in pendants, bangles, chokers and earrings. The combination of gold and glass gives it a distinctive, royal look, making it a popular choice for weddings and festive occasions. Unlike machine-made jewellery, each Thewa piece is one-of-a-kind, reflecting the artisan's expertise.

Thushi is a traditional Maharashtrian choker-style necklace made of closely arranged gold beads. It has a dense, intricate design yet remains lightweight, making it both elegant and comfortable to wear. Typically crafted in 22-carat gold, it is known for its rich, compact look. This jewellery piece has deep cultural significance in Maharashtra. It has been a part of Maharashtrian bridal jewellery for generations, symbolising prosperity and tradition. Thushi pairs beautifully with Paithani and Nauvari sarees, making it a staple in festive and wedding attire. A key feature of Thushi is its adjustable dori (thread) at the back, allowing it to be worn as a snug choker or a slightly looser necklace. Traditional designs often include a jowar (sorghum grain) pattern, representing wealth and good fortune. Some modern variations also incorporate small gemstones or pearls for added elegance.

Vanki is a traditional Indian armlet that originated in South India. It is an ornament worn on the upper arm similar to that of a coiled serpant. It is typically made of gold or silver with diamonds, ruby, emerald and other precious stones with intricate designs. The ornament is used primarily during weddings, particularly by brides in South India. The word Vanki is derived from the Tamil language and means bangle for the upper arm. The design of Vanki includes motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, leaves, and peacocks, with delicate craftsmanship and often decorated with precious stones like diamonds, rubies, and emeralds. Lower portions of the Vanki may have a parrot, leading up to the top. The shape of the Vanki is such that it is fixed over the upper arm without any strap, giving it an elegant look.