The History of Indian Fashion

Indian Fashion is more than just clothing. It is a reflection of history, culture and changing times. From ancient handwoven fabrics to modern designer wear, every era has left its mark on what we wear today. India's fashion journey goes back thousands of years. Ancient sculptures and paintings show people wearing beautifully draped fabrics, intricate jewellery and detailed embroidery. Over time, different rulers and cultures influenced the way Indians dressed. The Mughals introduced rich silks, fine embroidery and luxurious textiles. The British brought Western-style tailoring, changing traditional outfits. And today, fashion is a mix of tradition and modern trends, blending old craftsmanship with new designs. But Indian fashion has always been more than just style. It has been shaped by trade, politics and social changes. The use of Khadi during the freedom movement was not just about fabric - it was a symbol of independence. Now, with sustainability becoming important, India's traditional crafts and handwoven textiles are gaining attention again. Slow fashion, ethical clothing and handmade fabrics are making a strong comeback.

Fashion in ancient India was all about comfort, climate and craftsmanship. Cotton was widely used, while Silk became a luxury through trade and royal patronage. Natural Dyes like indigo, turmeric and madder red added vibrant colours, often holding cultural significance. During the Indus Valley Civilization, clothing was simple and draped. Men and women wore unstitched garments, secured with knots or belts - an early form of sarees and dhotis. Jewellery, like beaded necklaces and terracotta bangles, was a symbol of status. The Vedic and Mauryan periods introduced pleats and pins for a more structured look. Women wore Antariya (lower garments) and Uttariya (scarves or veils), while men draped dhotis and angavastrams. Royals favoured embroidered fabrics, while commoners kept it simple. Handlooms flourished and textile traditions like muslin weaving, block printing and tie-dye emerged. India's Muslin was so fine it was called Woven Air. These ancient techniques laid the foundation for India's rich textile heritage, shaping fashion for generations.

The Saree is one of India's oldest and most iconic garments, dating back over 5,000 years. Over time, these simple wraps merged into a single piece of fabric, creating the saree we know today. Its versatility allowed it to adapt across regions, climates and social roles. Whether made of silk for royalty or cotton for daily wear, the saree remained a symbol of grace, tradition, and identity. The saree is the traditional garment of an Indian women. It is an unstitched piece of cloth which varies from 5 - 9 yards in length over a petticoat and a short sleeve blouse or choli. The popular style of wearing a saree is by tucking one end into the petticoat at the waist and tucked in the front. The rest of the saree which is known as Pallu is taken over the left shoulder. The pallu is the fascinating and striking feature of a saree, it is often heavily embelished with woven motifs or embroidery. Despite centuries of change, the saree continues to evolve while staying true to its roots, making it a timeless piece in Indian fashion.

The Ghaghra and Choli is one of India's most iconic traditional outfits, worn mainly in North India and occasionally in the East and South. The Ghaghra is a highly pleated skirt that starts at the waist and falls to the ankles, held up with strong strings. It can take up to 20-30 yards of fabric, with variations in flare - some have vertical pleats, others a bell-shaped cut. The Choli is a fitted blouse, varying in length from the mid-rib to the waist, usually fastened at the back with strings. The Rajputs preferred structured, heavily pleated ghaghras in cotton and silk, often dyed in deep reds, blues and greens. The Mughals introduced luxury - rich brocades, gold and silver embroidery, and flowing silhouettes. Over time, these influences merged, creating the elaborate lehengas seen today. No ghaghra-choli is complete without the Veil, a scarf worn over the chest and head, adding elegance and modesty. This three-piece ensemble remains timeless, blending heritage with modern fashion.

The Orhna is a long, scarf-like piece of cloth, slightly wider and longer than a regular scarf. Traditionally, it is made from fine fabrics like silk, chiffon or cotton and is used to cover the head or face, especially in the presence of elders. It is an essential part of Indian attire, often paired with outfits like lehengas, salwar kameez, sarees and ghaghras. The way an Orhna is draped varies by region and occasion. With a ghaghra, one end is tucked at the waist while the other is pinned over the shoulders and left to hang down the back. Sometimes, it is pulled over the head from the left side. With a salwar kameez, the Orhna is usually draped with both ends hanging down the shoulders while the middle section covers the chest. Beyond its traditional role, the Orhna has evolved into a fashion statement. Today, it is styled in modern ways - belted at the waist, worn as a shrug or paired with contemporary outfits. Known by different names like dupatta, chunari or veil, this timeless piece continues to add elegance and grace to Indian fashion.

Medieval India saw fashion evolve under the influence of powerful dynasties. The Mughals brought luxurious fabrics like brocade and silk, along with zardozi embroidery - gold and silver threads woven into intricate patterns. Flowing anarkalis, jamas and elaborately designed dupattas became symbols of nobility. The Rajputs favoured bold colours, layered lehengas, and odhnis. Their love for heavy jewellery introduced kundan, polki and meenakari designs, while men wore structured angarkhas with jewelled turbans. In the Deccan, Persian influences led to fitted silhouettes, asymmetrical cuts and finely woven fabrics, paired with temple jewellery. This era also saw the development of distinct saree draping styles across regions - Gujarat's bandhani, Maharashtra's nauvari, and Bengal's loosely pleated look. Each style reflected cultural identity, social status and regional craftsmanship, shaping the legacy of Indian fashion.

British rule introduced Western tailoring to Indian fashion, especially among the elite. Men started wearing tailored coats, waistcoats and trousers, often paired with traditional dhotis or churidars. This blend of styles symbolised status and modernity. Indian women's attire also changed under Victorian influence. The saree, traditionally draped without additional garments, was paired with blouses and petticoats for modesty. High-neck, full-sleeved blouses became common, inspired by Victorian fashion. At the same time, the Swadeshi movement encouraged the revival of indigenous textiles. Khadi, handwoven and handspun, became a symbol of self-reliance and resistance against British-made fabrics. Handloom traditions saw a resurgence, reinforcing Indian craftsmanship. Despite European influence, regional styles remained distinct. The ghaghra-choli evolved differently across states, with variations in embroidery, fabric and draping styles. Western fashion left a mark, but India's traditional clothing retained its identity.

After independence, Indian fashion saw a shift. The 1950's to 1980's blended tradition with modern influences. Women moved from heavy silks to lighter fabrics like chiffon and georgette. Saree drapes evolved, and the ghaghra became more wearable with contemporary cuts. Bollywood played a huge role in popularising trends. Actresses like Mumtaz and Rekha made unique saree drapes and luxurious fabrics mainstream. Screen fashion influenced everyday styles, making traditional outfits more stylish and practical. Designers like Ritu Kumar revived embroidery with modern aesthetics, while Satya Paul introduced bold prints in sarees. Lehengas became lighter, with pastel shades replacing deep reds. Innovation in fabrics made everyday wear comfortable yet elegant. Draping styles also changed, making sarees more versatile and functional. This era laid the foundation for modern Indian fashion - rooted in tradition but evolving with contemporary tastes.

Indian fashion today blends tradition with modern trends. Handwoven sarees like Banarasi Silk, Chanderi and Kanjeevaram have made a strong comeback, now styled in fresh, contemporary ways. Designers are experimenting with drapes, pairing sarees with crop tops and jackets, making handloom a statement for both festive and casual wear. Indo-Western fusion is redefining ethnic fashion. Modern lehengas are lighter and more practical, saree gowns offer elegance without the hassle of draping, and cholis now come in bold new designs like off-shoulder and corset styles. This fusion keeps tradition alive while making fashion more adaptable. Social media plays a huge role in shaping trends. Influencers, fashion bloggers, and digital platforms amplify emerging styles, giving small designers and homegrown brands global visibility. A single viral look can set off a nationwide trend, making fashion more accessible and fast-moving.